Surfing as a metaphor for life? What do you think? If you are expecting that perfect photo of me up on a surf board.

Allen Falling

surfing is extremely difficult. Like life, it is frustrating, but, the water feels amazing. Like life, it requires unbelievable balance.  the more risk you take, the greater the reward.

What I noticed about surfing:

if you stay by the shore anyone can surf. everyone can see the wave that has already broken.

who doesn’t want the great photo

those that venture out into deep water gain the respect of those that went before them.

Surfing is one of the hardest things I have ever worked at learning. Day one, was a breeze, you are by the shore (hell my feet touched the ground), I got on the board the second time I tried. As I spent the day riding waves that had already broken, I started watching the other surfers. What I realized was that there was an order to the waves. Near the shore, the tourists (yes, I was one of them). Just a bit further out, a group of people who could actually surf, but they couldn’t see a wave coming. Then out beyond the initial curls, where the water was actually flat, the real surfers.

So day two, the instructor asks me “want to go out there”. I knew exactly what he was asking, and what I learned is absolutely a metaphor for life. First things first, at various times we all get asked “want to go out there”, only a few say yes. Secondly, just paddling out to deep water is hard, you’ve got to be in good shape and have the right technique. Thirdly, when you are in deep water, you better listen and pay attention. Lastly, you will fall, and fall hard, but there is a catch, there is less people in deep water, those out there respect that you are trying, if you listen, and pay attention, you can succeed. What do I think about surfing as a metaphor for life? Just about perfection. Sure the shore line is safer. Paddling out into deep waters should be hard. I love seeing the wave before it breaks. I’m completely fine with falling, falling hard, and paddling back out.

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